mytza ([info]mytza) wrote,
@ 2009-01-05 08:43:00
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Entry tags:the city

Moya Moskva
Maybe the most unexpected and memorable thing that happened to me last year was a short trip to Moscow, as part of a work assignment (a few interviews for a feature about expat managers in Moscow - yes, the crisis was not talked about at that time). Two full working days, with very little time for walking and the city seen mostly through the car windows. I spoke a little about it here and here and since then I didn't find enough time not only to write about it, but not even to update this journal or to read the friends list, because I had some very tough months - and I'm sorry for keeping silent for so long.

Now that I'm here again on LJ, browsing the few pics that I've took then, I remember everything as if it were yesterday; I didn't talk too much about that trip, because people want to know mainly how is Moscow from an economic point of view - prices, street fashion, urban development, tourism, signs of wealth, while I was interested in the traces of its history, the soul of the place, the people. It is indeed how I've imagined; all that has been happening to the whole Eastern Europe in the last 20 years can be seen here as through some magnifying lenses, and when you come home, you understand better your own life as an Eastern European through this recent history.

Our car stopped once at a semaphore, near Belyi Dom, and in my head was the memory of this, just as it is sung. The deeper the suffering, the greater the pride, the wisdom, the madness, the kindness, the struggle to keep one's identity, beyond old Soviet signs, Starbucks cafes, triumphant banner ads and new monuments that steal the eye of tourists. I know the looks of the people who were waiting for a bus on that windy morning and the looks of the teens who were later sitting and drinking on the small streets of Arbat. For a Western eye, probably all of them would have seemed unfriendly, if not completely inexpressive. Our driver saw the first drops of rain and said, as if to himself, with his shy and inexpressive smile: "daa, nebo plaachet". And yes, my heart is still there.

S Novym Godom, Moskva!





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[info]svetosila
2009-01-05 09:18 am UTC (link)
Спасибо!
with *unfriendly* sly wink

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[info]mytza
2009-01-05 09:28 am UTC (link)
*unfriendly* :))
There's a pic in the slideshow with a Starbucks cafe on the Arbat; I stayed there for a coffee and I tried to imagine you entering there (of course, in my mind you look like in the picture from Spravochnik).

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[info]svetosila
2009-01-05 09:35 am UTC (link)
well. I sort of look like that... next time just give me a call on my mobile

yes, we have Starbucks now, but I visited them only in USA mainly to steal brown sugar :^))) the regular American sugar seems to me notoriously unsweet

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[info]svetosila
2009-01-05 09:32 am UTC (link)
and hope you aren't cold due to the new season of the "gas blockbuster" (this phrase was coined here during the previous shutout for Ukraine)...
By the way, shutting out gas is a sure way to get real winter weather here (we haven't had any serious snow till 23 of december, and now it's a lovely -15)... Check out Дневник замерзающего москвича - it was a Runet hit...

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[info]mytza
2009-02-25 11:17 am UTC (link)
Hehe, it wasn't cold at all. In fact this was another winter almost without snow; we had only the predictable media blizzard, with the same stories about Nabucco, gas wars and what politicians should do. Meanwhile, some smart guys silently took advantage of the gas shortage and made a lot of money selling fuel oil at a higher price - and that was all :)

I remember well the winter from that Dnevnik. That's when I learned the word "moroz"; I was listening to Nashe Radio, trying to imagine how it feels to endure 20 degrees or more below zero. Much later I noticed that e-mae from ru_aquarium is from Chita and saw that there were -30, which is almost unimaginable for me (here in Bucharest, even -10 means unusually cold)!

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минус 30 если диктор не врет
[info]svetosila
2009-02-28 05:04 pm UTC (link)
"there is no bad weather there are only inadequate clothes"... still, everybody says that cold temperatures in wet air are felt more acutely.

I followed the funny saga of the London blizzard: the British newspaperd suddently got very interested in the issue of "how the Russians and the Swedes cope"and gave us rather a positive mark... still, our premier, speaking in Davos, remembered the old wisdom "in Russia, the winter always comes inexpectedly" - meaning the global crisis, of course.

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[info]svetosila
2009-01-05 09:41 am UTC (link)
speaking seriously: I'm glad you consider us fellow Eastern Europeans (of course, I never doubted it, because I know you, but since the maistream Western press got a habit calling EU Europe... :)))

the funny thing: to me, the American smile given to strangers (in the lift or on the bus) seems rather wary and fearful
different phonetics = different mimic

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[info]mytza
2009-02-25 10:59 am UTC (link)
I wish that people won't be that blind or hypocritical when talking about "Europe". Because you know there are many kinds of blindness or hypocrisy - the West towards the whole East, the EU towards non-member countries and the "rest of the East" (EU and non-EU members) towards Russia. Once there was a big and visible Iron Curtain, now there are many subtle Clichés Curtains, equally painful and with curious nuances.
If you read the Western business press these days, you see that "Europe" doesn't even mean the EU anymore, but only the old member states, as opposed to Russia together with the rest of the East, from Latvia to Croatia. And beyond this big picture, there are even more unpleasant things to discover. An Austrian banker (Austrian banks are big here) said: we have to save Eastern Europe from the crisis, like we saved it from Communism (!), while another Austrian official added: Brussels must help Eastern Europe (translation: Brussels must help the Western banks with big exposure to the East), otherwise it will fall again into (you've guessed) Russia's hands!

Maybe I mentioned it before, but I can't stand the habit of talking and smiling incessantly, just to prove that you don't ignore the others. I'm rather a cheerful being, but I don't feel the need to talk and smile all the time, it's artificial and tiresome. And this norm of politeness was among the first Western products to come into these countries. Ten years ago I went to Budapest; I can't forget a local PR lady who saw that I was looking at the buildings instead of making conversation about the breakfast and said to me: "you're speechless... are you alright?"

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[info]svetosila
2009-02-28 04:57 pm UTC (link)
hehe, I'm familiar with the geopolitics approach which is very funny sometimes
"we can't allow Russia their anticuated notion of the spheres of influence, but USA must help the young and eager democracy in resouce-rich Mongolia"... and the same happenson the other side of the fence... basically people tend to forget the recent past or the exact sequence of events...

I remember that in the Communist block there were some "nuance fences": Hungary was called in URSS "самый веселый барак социалистического лагеря", and Bulgaria was considered the 16th republic of the Soviet Union. I was astonished as a teenager when I discovered that Cuban leaders were tolerant of jazz and abstract art. I didn't know much about Romania (there were some children'books translated from Romanian but I belive they selected the wrong ones :))) But there was a writer from Moldova that I adored as a child: Spiridon Vangeli (not sure about the spelling in Latin). I haven't heard about him for a long time, and his books aren't republished... it's a pity....

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[info]svetosila
2009-01-05 09:45 am UTC (link)
So you visited the Новодевичий монастырь
check out the Spravochnik for an article from 1995 or 1996 or 1997 - Someone's favorite places in Moscow... I feel he hasn't any favorite places in the weepy-girlish sort of way and so he just named some out of his head, but the pond on Novodevichy was one and the Андроников монастырь (this one is also MY favorite since high school) one of the others...

my everyday life is one grey routine now... the work helps...

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[info]mytza
2009-02-25 10:42 am UTC (link)
Unfortunately, I didn't enter Novodevichy - we only had the time to visit Arhangelsky and Vasily Blazhennyi and to see the rest of the churches from outside. But is was really great, especially with such a guide! I hope that next time will be different (and that I'll be able to call you then).
Before the trip, it crossed my mind indeed that I don't know anything about Afftar's thoughts on Moscow and my only reference, if I can call it like this, is the abstract Moskovskaya Oktyabrskaya :)

Long live the grey routine, it's almost always welcome when things are tough. Sometimes it's the only effective medicine. And I'd add that with the current crisis, even the greyest routine can seem golden (but I hope you don't ever need to consider this argument).

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[info]svetosila
2009-02-28 04:31 pm UTC (link)
Yes, we here are wishing each other "to groan due to a big workload" (стонать от массы работы)... for now, I'm banking on the peoples'need to get information... and our president said a funny thing not long ago: "well, cinema was very popular in the USA during the Great Depression, so I guess now the Internet will be popular"... ahem... even more people looking for their school sweethearts on Odnoklassniki...

unfortunately, my routine isn't related to work only...

Speaking of work, there are GREAT NEWS: the Never-ending Tour resumes again, and I hope everything will be all right. Check out the official news on the site - written by the usual workaholics :^)))). And the "Internet-Radio" Aerostat is done in the same spirit... I like his manner of understatement...

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[info]theshadowofaman
2009-01-05 12:36 pm UTC (link)
Wow. You haven't mentioned anything about bears, Kalashnikov rifles, nuclear bombs Topol-M, matreshki, valenki and pelmeni.
What a fault! :)

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[info]havoc_mind
2009-01-06 05:22 pm UTC (link)
Omg, you were in Moscow!
Next time, when you are in Moscow, i would be glad if you could find even 5 minutes for a meeting.

Anyway, S Novim Godom.

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[info]mytza
2009-02-25 11:36 am UTC (link)
Thank you for this, it's so nice!! I'll take seriously your invitation - next time I hope to prepare the trip, so I can tell you about that at least a few days before leaving for Moscow.
Sorry I took so long to read and answer... I missed even your birthday :(

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[info]havoc_mind
2009-02-25 11:58 am UTC (link)
Well, he-he, you must be really busy, then.
Nevermind, i will have another one next year)
Waiting for first news from you about your visit.

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[info]fourmilier
2009-01-06 09:48 pm UTC (link)
Happy New Year! And Merry Christmas!

Very familiar places in your photos :) It's wonder - we go on the same places, but at various times and we learn about it only through the Internet. And after all really could meet and pass by, without knowing each other... 21 centuries - new technologies and virtual reality ;)

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