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January 2009

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Jan. 5th, 2009

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Moya Moskva

Maybe the most unexpected and memorable thing that happened to me last year was a short trip to Moscow, as part of a work assignment (a few interviews for a feature about expat managers in Moscow - yes, the crisis was not talked about at that time). Two full working days, with very little time for walking and the city seen mostly through the car windows. I spoke a little about it here and here and since then I didn't find enough time not only to write about it, but not even to update this journal or to read the friends list, because I had some very tough months - and I'm sorry for keeping silent for so long.

Now that I'm here again on LJ, browsing the few pics that I've took then, I remember everything as if it were yesterday; I didn't talk too much about that trip, because people want to know mainly how is Moscow from an economic point of view - prices, street fashion, urban development, tourism, signs of wealth, while I was interested in the traces of its history, the soul of the place, the people. It is indeed how I've imagined; all that has been happening to the whole Eastern Europe in the last 20 years can be seen here as through some magnifying lenses, and when you come home, you understand better your own life as an Eastern European through this recent history.

Our car stopped once at a semaphore, near Belyi Dom, and in my head was the memory of this, just as it is sung. The deeper the suffering, the greater the pride, the wisdom, the madness, the kindness, the struggle to keep one's identity, beyond old Soviet signs, Starbucks cafes, triumphant banner ads and new monuments that steal the eye of tourists. I know the looks of the people who were waiting for a bus on that windy morning and the looks of the teens who were later sitting and drinking on the small streets of Arbat. For a Western eye, probably all of them would have seemed unfriendly, if not completely inexpressive. Our driver saw the first drops of rain and said, as if to himself, with his shy and inexpressive smile: "daa, nebo plaachet". And yes, my heart is still there.

S Novym Godom, Moskva!


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Feb. 10th, 2008

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Gorod



Next to the building where I work there are a few old houses, most of them built before 1900 and more or less ruined. Some were deserted and then occupied by homeless people, other were enough lucky to be rented by companies which, in some cases, have managed to refurbish them.
However, this is not an area considered by the city bureaucrats as a top priority when they make plans about restoring the historical centre - or at least it don't seem to be a priority, though it's very close to the area that I wrote about last summer. There are investors who want to buy the houses an then demolish them and build something else, and inheritors who want back the houses so as to sell them later (I'm talking about the inheritors of people who lost these houses because of Communist nationalizations).
In the meantime, the whole area is decaying. I walk along these buildings fearing either that one of them will collapse next to me, or that another one will dissapear overnight and an office building will appear instead. Most of the current owners are either very old, or casual residents unwilling to take care of the houses.

There are smart, educated people who adore photowalking and who blog their photos of the historical centre. Many search for that chic, "vintage" atmosphere they've learned about from books and films, and they're so dissappointed of what they see. Some try to avoid the most ruined buildings and the garbage between them and choose only a few nice corners. Some don't have this patience and simply start to complain that the city is unbearably ugly and isn't worth living in anymore. Let's demolish everything and build something healthy instead! How to attract tourists and investors when the centre looks like this? Oh, such things can only happen in Romania! Let's get out of here! 

When I'm at work, I see through the window two old buildings. The one from the left is empty, nobody lives here anymore and the space is for rent; there's an open window and the wind moves it gently, as if wanting to allow someone from the inside to breathe. In the other house there's a small company office and next to it lives an old couple; when it was cold and snowing, I saw the man getting out on the balcony to feed the pigeons. Pigeons that used to have a rest on the ornaments above the windows. And sometimes the sun reaches those ornaments and time ceases to move, as if there'd be no difference between the present day and any other sunny day, 50 or 100 years ago.
I can't say how much I love my ugly city.
 

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Nov. 7th, 2007

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Letnyaya skazka




It was a difficult and heavy summer in this city. As if ghosts of its past inhabitants were to fill the air and send us their sad thoughts and worries and messages about death.
The Mayorship has decided to rehabilitate the historical centre of the city, which is now almost ruined, so firstly there were performed archaeological works in the area. But the diggings took more than expected and revealed more than expected – walls of buildings, arcades of inns and churches of the past three centuries. All of this – quite well preserved, just a few meters under the present streets and buildings. The Bucharest Mayorship took pride in it and promised that the discoveries will be taken care of and will become a great touristical attraction, covered with some glass ceilings, so the tourists can walk above them and watch the history under their feet. But the company that had won the tender to rehabilitate the area was unhappy with the delay of works, saying that it loses money and that the diggings must be postponed. So the Mayorship said that there's no enough money for the project with the glass ceilings and decided to quickly cover the ruins and let the company do its work. And the company proceeded.
You had to see the historical centre of the city, with its streets excavated under the canicular sun. Beautiful arcades and walls made of thin, delicate bricks, still seeming to exhale their traces of life. Old, ruined buildings in their neighborhood, so despised by the many who think that the area must be demolished and planted with steel and glass buildings. The diggings discovered even some human bones under the building of a bank – bones that were already unearthed at the end of the 19th century, when the bank was erected. Those people lived and died here in the 17th-18th centuries. And the newspapers now were reporting about children and workers helping the archaeologists (in fact, doing the actual diggings) and playing with the bones or searching for old coins or other valuables that might be buried there.
Now the heat is gone, the streets are freshly paved and the old walls are buried again. There is only a place on a street (I heard that there will be more such places) where a little sample of the past is still visible, through a glass ceiling – like a small coffin covered with glass. I don't know what's happened with the ghosts of all the people that lived here. Or if they're happy with this new end of their story. May the earth lie light upon them. Maybe they forgive that this earth is in fact the new ground with concrete tiles brought by the construction company.

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Jun. 4th, 2007

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Lipa

There's only one period in the whole year when this city is magic, as if suddenly all its ugly buildings and dull corners were redeemed: the few weeks when the lime trees are flourishing and filling the air with their smell. I know almost for sure that this period begins around June 17 each year.
This year, the summer came earlier, and yesterday, when I went out, I felt that perfume on the warm air. And I struggled to perceive the present day and not to be swallowed by many of my past months of June. No, it's not a Proust's madeleine; it's like that this summer smell can dissolve me and change me in an unexpected way and connect me better with myself. It did this before and I see myself realizing it in various past years. Going to a wedding of a friend and being late because I stayed too long at home to listen "Friends of Mr. Cairo" and "Mayflower" and so on. The fear of an exam making me walk through the park near the university, with a knot in the stomach. The house of a friend, in an old neighborhood, with cats and dogs and flowers, and the sadness in the air because she was going to leave the country. Meeting my then-boyfriend to go for a walk and suddenly understanding that I was falling in love with someone else. And all this under a soft and white sun, like in a dream, with the perfume of the lime trees wrapping everthing and making it magic.
And now, as always when the month of June is coming, I think that I could never leave this city and live elsewhere. Otherwise I'd have to run back here every May, to wait and be here in time for the meeting with my yearly dream.
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Sep. 7th, 2006

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zatmenie

Partial moon eclipse. I think its peak just passed a few minutes ago. It's quite weird to see our shadow on this full, bright moon... and the impassible buses, cars and passersby flowing as usual under this celestial landscape. Surely, people from this planet don't fear their shadow :)
However, this is less strange than the last moon eclipse visible from here, in November 2003. That was a complete one and the Moon seemed much farther from the Earth, all reddened and somehow overwhelmed by the burden of Earth's shadow. Now, with a little goodwill, one can think that it's only a cloud bothering the Moon. The only small cloud on a completely serene evening sky.
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